Sitting in the ocean, watching as the waves flow through their cycle: building up and breaking down. I notice as a wave rises to an enormous height and reaches it's peak before curling over and crashing back on itself. I hear a low rumbling roar break through the atmosphere as a great mass of water molecules fall against each other with strong force.
My gaze travels as I watch the white water rolling towards land and fizzling out onto the sand. As my eyes drift up, I notice how the dark volcanic sandy shore halts at thick line of lush rainforest. Behind the rainforest rises deep green mountains crowned with cool misty clouds.
The sun sparkles silver off of the blue-green water. There's an overwhelmingly strong taste of salt water in my mouth, making my tongue begin to feel rough like sand paper. I feel the warm saltwater engulfing my legs from the knee down and my thighs beginning to stick to the wax that coats my surfboard. My nose is filled with the salty smell of the ocean and the sweet smell of surf wax. Pulling my hand out of the water, I hear the twinkling sound of water droplets as they each fall against the ocean's surface, like tiny bells being rung.
The white hot sun reflects off of the ocean's mountainous surface, giving me nowhere to hide. Blinded by the bright sun beating down on me, I feel my cheeks begin to warm. I know I should go back to shore before I burn myself too badly, but the addictive feeling of ridding one more wave drives me to stay in the comforts of the ocean. I could stay here for the rest of my life, I feel at home.
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